So… I made this coat a long time ago… in November 2019. Life got a little away from me this year in terms of blogging. I believe the last thing I blogged about was summer 2019.
Now for the coat. This is the Rumana coat from By Hand London. Love it! I traced out a size 12 and did a 2.5” FBA, then graded the seams from 5/8” to 3/8” at the hips for about 2” of extra ease. I also did a 1” away back adjustment, moved the buttons up 4” and made 4 button holes, and shortened the pattern, but I can’t remember how much, somewhere between 4 and 6”.
Overall, the instructions were well written and I didn’t run into issues in constructing the garment. The issue I ran into was when I decided to interline my coat with Thinsulate. I used a medium thickness, CS150. So first I underlined the lining pieces, a gorgeous light pink Bemberg from Vogue Fabrics (where I purchased the Thinsulate as well). This part was time consuming, but went well.
All was going well: awesome pockets, beautiful Italian fuchsia wool/cashmere coating from Mood Fabrics, slippery Bemberg, warm Thinsulate… Then after trying on the coat with both exterior and lining… too tight! I misjudged how much extra space the Thinsulate would take. I’d gone up a size thinking that would be sufficient, nope! So I took in the seams of the lining, let out the seams of the exterior fabric and much better. Note to self: cut out lining regular size and cut out exterior fabric 1 size up.
Also, Thinsulate is very sensitive to heat, so be careful with the iron! I accidentally melted the Thinsulate in the upper back a bit. Oops! But you can’t tell thankfully.
My sewing machine’s automatic buttonhole maker really didn’t like the thickness of the coat and “ate” several attempts. I ended up having to zigzag and do them manually.
All in all, love how my coat turned out and it was perfect for colder winter days. The cashmere wool is so soft. And that color!